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I`m back, apologies for the long delay in getting back to you on the progress of my lights!
Here is an update, both my video light and dive light worked and water tested well!
I had many enquires form people who wanted to buy a light, and I`ve spent some time looking at options to make it manufacturable.
Unfortunately it isn`t easy, as there are many expensive components involved, my original reason for developing these was just to prove it could be down simply using everyday products (like plumbing pipe). I didn`t realise there would be so much interest.
My LED light deveoplment took a slight change in direction, I have taken a Nocturnal Lights SLX 3 LED torch (originally 3 x 100 lumen LED's) and upgraded it with 3 x 228 lumen LED`s. It is now stunningly bright, with a large spot that easily lights up items 100m away above the water. Below water, 10 to 20m range is no problem and its depth rated to 100 meters!
Wow, how simple was the upgrade? Besides soldering new led's in place, did you have to replace anything else?
Now, where did you get the better LED's? And I wonder if there is a way to convert older bulb style lights to LED? That would be insanely awesome, as I have some old dive lights that would be of great use if they were LED.
07-12-2011, 06:02 PM
rzade@hotmail.com
My dive light
I am a retired aviation machinist and toolmaker. I set out a year ago to make a can light since I couldn't afford the high prices charged for those on the market. I have always been a tinkerer and have a pretty complete shop with a lathe and mill so I knew I could make a pro level light if I could just come up with the right components. I started as most do using standard plumbing fittings and was displeased with the look and performance of the resulting lights. I wanted something to be proud of and perhaps something that would be marketable. After many hours and many changes and up grades I am finally happy with the results. No cheap components, no hacking, no grinding, filing or gluing. No clamps to snag or break. Everything is precision machined and o-ring sealed.
I use a maglight head machined to my spec's because mag is a proven quality product that is quality anodized to resist saltwater. The one thing I couldn't do in house. The canister is machined from high strength type II PVC and double o-ring sealed. The sealing glands are nickle plated brass not plastic. The switch boots are made of silicone not rubber and the lens is 1/4" thick Plexiglas.
The light head is an all aluminum unit for excellent heat dissipation and maximum strength. It uses a 5 led 5 mode light module that produces 1200 lumens on high.